More than two decades after winning his first Michelin star, the Cornwall-based chef explains why unfancy food is best – and shares his recipe for steamed brill with pea, shallot and cider stew
It’s 23 years since Nathan Outlaw opened the Black Pig in Rock, Cornwall, when he was 25 years old. It was a long shot that everyone told him not to take – he already had a great job at the Vineyard in Stockcross, Berkshire; his wife, Rachel, was eight-and-a-half months pregnant; and he’d won a couple of prestigious young chef awards. But he wanted a place of his own; a simple menu, “bistro cooking,” he says. “That’s why I became a chef. I loved cooking, my dad’s a good canteen chef, he worked in a big paper mill in Kent, cooking for workers. I loved the physical aspect, standing up doing something. I loved the way there’s a lot of team work. I didn’t know anything about Michelin stars or being famous.” But he got his first Michelin star anyway, the year after he opened.
After that, he was a name, and it was fine dining and TV specials for many years – two eponymous restaurants in the St Enodoc hotel in Rock, the Great British Menu and Saturday Kitchen on TV, and he kept a foothold in Mayfair with Outlaw’s at the Capital in the 00s. He’s a calm cook, never big on the fireworks – “My mum always said to me: ‘you can’t be the one that throws your weight around, you’re too big’” – which is the right temperament for the food he pioneered during these tasting menu years.
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More than two decades after winning his first Michelin star, the Cornwall-based chef explains why unfancy food is best – and shares his recipe for steamed brill with pea, shallot and cider stewIt’s 23 years since Nath...
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