Is there such a thing as affordable white burgundy?

These singular wines from France’s gastronomic heartland are expensive to make and to buy, but if you know where to look, they don’t have to break the bank

Everyone loves white burgundy. Made from chardonnay grapes, these wines from France’s gastronomic heartland, stretching from just south of Champagne to just north of Lyon, are singular: graceful, textured and full of joy. But prices tend to be less friendly; Doug Wregg from organic wine importer Les Caves de Pyrene says “affordable burgundy” is “almost an oxymoron” due to limited supply, labour-intensive production techniques and historic prestige. The recent slew of poor vintages has made those low yields even lower, and prices higher. But good examples do exist at under £25 a pop, which is where I’ve set my budget benchmark today.

That sum won’t get you premier cru meursault, or anything from the Côte d’Or, a narrow hillside of celebrated limestone slopes south of Dijon, but there is still plenty within reach. Not least aligoté, the region’s second white grape, which can reliably be found for less than £25 (try Majestic’s Famille Gueguen number at £15.50 a bottle on the “mix six” offer), but “white burgundy” always means chardonnay, which is my focus today. A sensible start is in the Mâconnais, the southernmost point of Burgundy’s wine-producing area, where warmer temperatures and clay-limestone soil make for a rounder style of wine. Almost every supermarket has an own-label Mâcon Villages – I spent many a tidy Friday night in my twenties in a south London park with the Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference iteration (now £12.50 – inflation!) and a large bag of Doritos Cool Original (a good pairing, incidentally) – and they tend to be easy, fruity table wines. Usually, they’re unoaked, too, removing a layer of process that helps keep the price down. That said, oak doesn’t necessarily mean better; rather, its absence arguably lets the terroirs sing louder. Wregg’s Domaine des Cadoles 2022 Mâcon Chardonnay in today’s pick is a lovely example, at once mineral and creamy.